Enjoy Rural Poland At The Beskids
Experience A Different View Of Poland in the Bieszczady Mountains
The Bieszczady are the Polish arm of the Beskids Mountain Range, and peak at around 4000 feet. Here, mountains are gently rounded and rolling, and topped with gentle meadow and forest. Lower down in the valley are beech forests, with locals regularly hunting for mushrooms in summer months.
Polish Towns and Villages
Sleepy farming villages line the valley bottom. These are noteworthy for their original wooden chalet type homes, and locals who still use traditional farming methods. In summer months, it is common to see local farmers cutting grass with scythes or gather eggs from the free-range chickens wandering around. The pine forests are large employers in the region, and walkers will often see traditional horse and carts bringing cut trees from the mountains.
Although the villages are quiet, they have often experienced periods of upheaval. In the 1940’s and 50’s, many locals in the region, the Ukrainian, Boyko and Lemko, were persecuted and forcibly relocated from the area. More recently, the economic revolution has meant many of the young in the villages have moved from the subsistence farming way of life to the cities, while affluent families from the cities buy up vacation homes.
Day Trip to the Tatra Mountains
Further to the east are the more famous Tatra Mountains, which peak at 6000 feet and have a harsh rocky alpine feel. The Tatra’s can be reached during a day trip from the Bieszczady; just make your way to the capital of the area, Zakopane.
Poland Walking Trails
The Polish enjoy hiking, and there are countless well marked and made out walking trails in the area. Get a local map from one of the tourist information offices in the area to plot a route. Routes are colour coded and regularly marked by a paint mark on a tree, rock, or sign.
One of the most popular routes is the John Paul II walking trail. Young John Paul was born on the edge of the region, and often walked in the area.
Eating and Drinking In the Bieszczady Mountains
Many of the mountain peaks have mountain refuges run by the PTTK. The views from here can be wonderful. While a few are simply for shelter if the weather turns poor, many are staffed and offer a clean dormitory bed and a meal and drink for a few zlotys. A few nights hiking from refuge to refuge is a real rural experience.
Although the villages are small, many have at least one local bar or restaurant. The owner may not speak English, but they will be happy to serve you a local dish. Non-Polish speakers will find it very useful to travel with a phrase book!
The less adventurous may want to visit one of the larger towns, which will have restaurants more geared to tourist tastes. Pizza restaurants are popular here. The local beer Zywiec is excellent, strong and confident.
Getting To the Bieszczady Mountains
The Bieszczady region lies on the Slovak border to the south of Krakow. It can be a little difficult for tourists to reach. Visitors can fly into Krakow or Katowice, hire a car and drive for a couple of hours. It is more difficult to use public transport, but visitors can reach the heart of the region at Zywiec quite easily, and some local busses extend further into the country.
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