As with most eastern European countries, where a heavy meal is a necessity during the long, icy winter, Poland is known for its rich, meaty cuisine. That does not mean, however, that vegetarians are out of luck. There are several steps one can take to follow a vegetarian diet that is not all starches.
What to Expect
First, a word of warning: this isn't Burger King. Polish diners cannot generally order their food any way they want it. This is especially true for anyone who does not speak Polish fluently. Should one discover that the pierogi he or she thought to be vegetarian is instead full of ground beef, that diner would still have to pay for said pierogi. Sending anything back to the kitchen simply doesn't happen. Further, there is no way for non-Polish speakers to be certain that their pierogi does not contain lard. It's usually a safe bet that the food in touristy areas is not cooked in lard, but it's always a gamble.
Traditional Cuisine
That said, there are some traditional Polish foods vegetarians can try if they are willing to accept even the slightest possibility of lard. Pierogi, essentially Polish dumplings, are a good choice, with two easy-to-find options being pierogi ruskie (stuffed with mashed potatoes and cheese) and pierogi z kapusta i gzrybami (stuffed with cabbage and wild mushrooms). Soups can be a good choice, and there are countless recipes from which to choose, but, again, watch out for meat-based broths.
Most restaurants have at least one meatless option, such as fried camembert with jam or various salads usually made with red or white cabbage and/or pickled vegetables. If eggs are acceptable, naleszniki, or Polish crepes, stuffed with anything from spinach to sweet cheese are an excellent option. One of Poland's national dishes, flaki, or tripe, has a vegetarian doppelganger called soj (soy) flaki. Admittedly, many will not even want to pretend to eat animal guts, but many Polish vegetarians swear by it.
Of course, cabbage is a popular ingredient in Poland. Vegetarians will be pleased with knysza, a pita filled with red and white cabbage, carrots, corn, a garlic yogurt sauce, and crunchy fried onions. Filling and fresh, knyszy can be found anywhere from kebab shops to train stations.
Other Influences
For non-traditional Polish fare, an easy way out is to go for zapiekanka, which is basically pizza on French bread, or tost, grilled cheese. Either of these items can be found in restaurants or at outdoor stands at four in the morning. The nicer the place, the better the zapiekanka. As a late-night snack, it can be soggy and bland, just a way to soak up the beer. But at certain spots, zapiekanka can be delectable, even topped with sliced roma tomatoes and feta cheese.
Speaking of feta, Greek salads are popular throughout Poland, a tasty way to get fresh vegetables. Pasta and pizza are everywhere, and various ethnic restaurants, such as Chinese and Indian, have popped up in some cities.
Strictly Vegetarian Restaurants
Believe it or not, several major cities in Poland boast vegetarian restaurants. Green Way, an inexpensive and strictly meatless chain with plenty of hot and cold dishes to choose from, exists in Warsaw, Krakow, Katowice, Gdansk, Poznan, Lodz, and some smaller cities. Krakow is also home to Momo and it's yummy, simple style. The upscale spot Biosfeera pleases herbivores and teetotalers alike in Warsaw. In Wroclaw, diners can visit the first floor of Vega for vegetarian meals or the second floor for vegan options. And that's just a sampling of what's out there.
Going to Market
Every town is dotted with tiny produce markets and at least one large open market full of gorgeous fruits and vegetables. Root vegetables, such as potatoes, beets, turnips, celery root, and carrots, are ubiquitous, but cabbage, onions, wild mushrooms, spinach, pickled cucumbers, and even leeks are usually not far behind. Visitors during apple or berry season will be delighted by the colorful options. In larger cities, bigger grocery stores stock soymilk and other soy products as well as international items.
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